Best personal anchor system for climbing reddit. The Black Diamond Link Personal Anchor is a great personal anchoring system with 4 color coded loops rated for 22kn each. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. Easiest and the fastest to use, very little fumbling around, and when your main objective isn't to climb that's a bonus. That being said, I will keep a sling as a backup. Amazon. A couple of my thoughts. Let our team of climbing experts help you find the best climbing shoes, top climbing harnesses, and climbing ropes for your needs and budget. I was also informed that my knotted personal anchor was unsafe (I always keep it under load while anchored). A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. This is the only method I use in this situation, mainly because it requires the least extra gear. I used it on a route with a kind of gross super hi angle semi-hanging belay at the top of one pitch. Now I'm trying to determine whether I need a dedicated anchor (4 locking carabiners) and a personal anchor system (3 lockers and a chain of loops)? Am I just not thinking of something obvious? Side note: Any recommendations for cutting costs? EDIT: Hey guys I have heard you loud and clear. Jun 29, 2013 · A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems – are they better than just the rope? Personal Anchor Systems collection – we tested all these systems. It's easy to use, the sewn daisy loops are safer than a daisy chain and almost as adjustable (but more so than using slings). Mar 1, 2023 · The Metolius personal anchor system (PAS) is known for its chain-link-style construction, which offers safer, more convenient, and more adjustability when compared to quickdraws, slings, or daisy chains at the anchor. The danger is using dyneema as a PAS, letting slack into the system (climbing up to or above the anchor) and then falling directly onto the sling. Naturally I looked at the Metolius dyneema PAS first, however a study showed that when loaded with a 100kg it broke with a factor 1. And I gotta say, I like the Petzl Connect Adjust much more. The webbing on the personal anchor system on the left. The interlocking loops on the Metolius are annoying and adjusting the length is more tedious. As a newer leader, I’m fascinated by what people carry for their belaying, rappelling, anchoring, self-rescue, and tools in general that you might “always” have for a climb. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. It’s great for when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. The dyneema core cord is perfect for anchor systems. Aug 16, 2021 · The way you build your anchor can also impact how comfortable you’ll be while using it to belay your partner up to you and whilst belaying them up the next pitch. Get helmets. Thank you for all the input, especially the warnings. For my personal backcountry alpine ultralight adventures we use 5mm Metolius Monster cord. Check out the latest deals on climbing hardware here. Doing it this way eliminates any potential factor 2 falls. Otherwise, you can make a useful Purcell Prusik or slight variations using a few dollars worth of cord along with a couple of carabiners. Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. We've used these lockers attached to our belay devices, while building multi-pitch anchors, on the end of personal anchor systems, for setting up top-ropes, and for all the myriad needs while big wall climbing on El Cap. Jun 27, 2011 · QC Lab: Daisy chain dangers from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo. Self-belay loop: Use a 2- to 3-foot length of 5 - 8mm Perlon cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman's knot. Their advice of a PAS to a redundant anchor is really only used on the way down multi pitch climbs while setting up intermediate rappels. The nylon sheath holds knots well and the redundancy of 2 anchor legs means knot slips are not a concern at all. How do you set up the right sport climbing anchors for a safe top-rope? And, how do you clean the gear off the anchor afterwards? You often have to be comfortable untying the rope from your harness in Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. ago Why aren't Purcell-Prusiks more popular for personal anchor? So i've been doing alot of research into what personal anchor system to invest in before I set up a rappell. Mar 3, 2025 · The quadalette, aka the quad anchor offers a strong, fast, redundant, and simple anchor. Many use 7mm cord (myself included). Sometimes the length is adjustable, other times the length is fixed. I ask my belayer for slack before he removes his belay device to test the personal anchoring system. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Daisy chainsshould not be used as anchoring systems,for two important reasons. You may want to look into e. Reply reply Karrun • Reply reply mortalwombat- • Reply reply Karrun • Reply reply More repliesMore repliesMore A friend and I learnt trad climbing with a guide, and he told us to avoid using static materials for building anchors, as it can be harder on the anchor points in case of a fall, which is more likely for them to fail. com Yeah I think that’s totally valid. So far when cleaning the anchor I've been using a sling connected to my harness with a girth hitch and a locking carabiner as a personal anchoring system. Reply reply pinkyarmando • When I went climbing this past weekend, a friend of mine tied a rope to a tree to use as a personal anchor while he approached the cliff face to create our master point. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Mar 31, 2016 · You want the ideal, adjustable anchor system but you don't want the ideal, adjustable anchor system? You have your answer (clove hitch the climbing rope), but for whatever reason are digging for a better answer? First of all, what your friend is doing is dumb, for the reasons you listed. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • A couple of rules: anchor is unquestionably strong, don't actually allow a fall ( restraint/work positioning devices) , a shock pack to reduce the amount of force on the anchor, be aware of pendulum affect ( if your anchor is set in the middle of the ridge line and you have rope played out rope to reach bottom corner of roof if you fall will trueI have some 6mm cord leftover from my quad anchor, can I use it to make a PAS? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. This personal anchor system helps keep the climber safe while rigging a top rope anchor after gaining the chains. This is a solid set up for me and allows me to do any anchoring I need to. For more of our top climbing gear recommendations, check out the Best Belay Carabiners. Don't use daisy chains, they're not meant to use as an anchor. A simple single point connection to either anchor point and another piece (normally a QuickDraw) to temporarily connect both anchor points is all you need. Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. Find the best personal anchors (PAS) from the all climbing brands that make and sell them including Yates, Metolius, CAMP, and Black Diamond. That doesn't seem safe enough to me :s Sep 4, 2011 · When climbing multi-pitch routes, the best way to clip in to the anchor is by clove hitching into a locker with your rope. I went with cordellete instead of a dyneema sling because of all the safety reasonings. This PAS, which is still available in two versions, is constructed of webbing sewn into individual loops interconnected like a chain; each loop carries Read more › [UPDATE] Yesterday, I watched my friend fall 50 meters to his death. That makes it best suited for routes with modern, two-bolt belays and/or ice routes when using two screws at a stance. In most anchoring situations you will have 4 to 6 loops. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. The last person to climb to the top secures him or herself directly to the anchor (Directly from the harness to a secure point on the anchor out of the way, with a daisy chain, or "personal anchor system" with locking carabiners on the ends) so that they can safely go "off belay", and get off the rope. A good anchor comprises multiple redundant components (natural and/or artificial), each capable of supporting the entire anchor system independently. Compare every detail and find the best price. Our top pick overall is the Petzl Attache. It all comes out in the wash to being just fine. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. There'll be atleast 2 of is splitting the gear costs. None of that shit is needed to go single pitch sport climbing. It is tied in a loop with a double fisherman's (plenty of tail) and girth hitched to my hard points, with shelves made by overhand knots. Get a personal anchor system. The most common alternatives to a PAS are: Using slings Using a Purcell Prussik Using the rope Below we discuss these popular alternatives and link to some great how-to videos. Jan 18, 2019 · With big-wall climbing, technical skills are more important than how hard you climb —success depends on several micro-systems working together simultaneously toward one goal. Feb 2, 2023 · There are a ton of options for Personal Anchor Systems available today. Looking for best suggestions. What’s a Personal Anchor System? A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. On the way up multi pitch, people clove hitch their main rope to a redundant anchor. Get some pear shape The PAS 22 is safer, more convenient, and more adjustable than using slings, quickdraws, or daisy chains at the anchor. Some people also like using an anchor system like the Metolius PAS. After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. The locking biners (also called screwgates, sometimes) are for things like attaching your belay/rappel device to your harness, or clipping into an anchor with a sling (or personal anchor system), or in a top rope anchor. Like all personal anchor systems not involving the rope, this is best used while cleaning an anchor to set up a rappel, during which you'll be untied from the rope. You are wasting your time energy trying to over engineer what we’ve figured out long ago. On a generous belay ledge it doesn The metolius personal anchor system is rated to hold a fall, very lightweight and comes with several attachment point options. He tethered himself onto this anchor rope using a prusik knot connected to a carabiner which was clipped onto his harness belay loop. This has the potential to be super dangerous… Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. A new sport climber is going to want a stick clip day one though. So what are some reasons why you might choose one over another? This post dives into each of the features we catalog on WeighMyRack. There is a way to set you anchor after a lead as a quad anchor and then use the quad as a tether when you clean, but this can sometimes lead to difficult positions compared to a traditional Personal anchor system. Theoretically this could break it, although I've never actually heard of this happening. sling debate is generally simple. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. I saw some people at my local crag yesterday using a daisy chain as a PAS (personal anchor system). Jan 19, 2023 · The 3 basic types of personal anchor system based on their construction are: Lanyards are made from dynamic materials with one sewn loop to attach to a harness and one sewn loop for the anchor. I've also tried the typical chain-link style PAS things (like Metolius). All of the features we cover below are also filterable on WeighMyRack. com: personal anchor systemGM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Safe Chain PAS Sling 22kN CE UIAA Certified for Personal Anchor System Rappel Transition Aid Climbing 97cm / 38in Strength: 22 kN Compare Metolius Dynamic Personal Anchor System $44. No one tests climbing gear as extensively and thoughtfully as we do, and our review ratings make it easy for you to make smarter Jun 15, 2012 · Traditionally, climbers have anchored to the belay by tying in directly with the rope. You don’t need to do all this to clean sport routes. Just getting the obligatory "daisy chains suck outside of aid climbing, anchor with the clove hitched rope instead unless you're cleaning an anchor for a rappel, in which case just anchor with slings" talking points out of the way. So here's what I'm after: 70m rope Quick draws for climbing in western canada and possibly the western US helmet Anchor system Biners And whatever slings and webbings I'll need I already have a harness and belay device. Oct 1, 2023 · Mastering Anchor Systems When it comes to climbing, anchors are the lifelines that keep us securely attached to the wall, making their proper setup crucial for safety. A black Diamond rock lock auto locking twist lock carabiner will be easy to open and wide enough to run smoothly over the cables. People out here suggesting personal anchors, knee pads, gloves, extra webbing, hangboard, etc. It kinda sounds like maybe it's intended for something else but you want to use it for a top rope anchor? If that's the case, that could be pretty sketch. A simple, fully adjustable lanyard to make anchoring easier, faster, and safer. The quad also works well on multi-piece gear Once you have an experience buddy, a personal anchor (I love the Metolius PA system), belay device, set of draws, 3-4 locking biners, a few non-lockers, a few feet of tubular webbing. The Petzl Connect- by far my favorite new piece of gear from Winter OR last week. This video highlights some of the main rock climbing personal anchor systems. The first category, "Climbing Carabiners," has a lot of variety. PAS make a strong, secure, tested way to connect yourself to an anchor without using the rope or other gear like slings or quickdraws that you might need elsewhere. Anchor building is vital stuff if you want to stay safe and enjoy your multi-pitch climbing. A PAS is an essential piece of climbing gear if you are going outside. This is a good length to make an autoblock hitch or prusik hitch to use as a backup brake while rappelling. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. I’ve always had dedicated PAS but am leaning toward ditching it entirely and primarily anchoring with the climbing rope (I mostly do multi-pitch trad). Double Lanyards are lanyards with an additional connection point. This setup can work for everything from building a climbing anchor to making your own adjustable personal anchor system (PAS). The locking draw The anchor building itself is probably the easiest part of bringing up a follower on a bolted route. The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. Here, we talk about the difference between personal anchor systems, runners & daisy cahins. Mar 2, 2023 · A personal anchor system can be a handy tool in the toolbox for climbers. But the top of sport climbing routes can be confusing, and making a mistake can be fatal. 25 fall. One critical micro-system is anchor organization and management, which will help you stay safe and move efficiently, so that you and your partner aren’t restacking your rope a dozen times or spending hours at the 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. $30. Jul 24, 2025 · Here at The Adventure Junkies, we will help you determine the best carabiner for your needs. You should never climb above your anchor or fall directly on either style of PAS. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Specifically the “why” behind it. Read on to learn our key tips for the best multi-pitch anchor systems. Anchors can be made of bolts pre-placed in the rock, or climbers can place their own “trad gear” to construct a removable anchor. Apr 24, 2023 · The other end of the PAS is girth hitched onto your harness, securing it to you. I like the Metolius Personal Anchor System. Feb 9, 2020 · So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. Now, many prefer the convenience of personal anchor tethers specifically designed for this purpose for belays, as well as for cleaning the top anchor on a sport climb or anchoring during multi-pitch rappels. Honestly, a Petzl Connect Adjust is the better option, only because it is less hassle. So your backup on the right is basically there in case the bolt fails, or the chain fails, or the carabiner fails. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. I'll break them first into locking and non-locking. You're probably carrying at least one cordelette with you for trad multipitch anyway (I like carrying three; one for the current anchor One or two personal slings? Seems like most of the people I know often climb with two personal anchors to clip to at an anchor. Jul 10, 2023 · Keep reading to learn about personal anchor systems and how you can incorporate them into your climbing. Figuring out which one is best for you in the personal anchor system vs. (Do not use hardware store rope, it is not rated for climbing or rappelling) In such short lengths, there is no practical difference between a "dynamic" PAS and a regular one. e. Other important questions: Oct 31, 2016 · I've been using various things for a personal anchor while sport climbing. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. The rest of the cordelette I can build my anchor system and have 3 carabiners for it. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the Sep 22, 2021 · In this second installment in our series on rappelling gear, we are going to talk about personal anchor systems (PAS for short). Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). I personally use nylon webbing for my personal anchor. Ultimately, learning the one-handed clove hitch and using a few med-large biners at your belay for the clove is the tried-and-true method for quick, dynamic personal anchors using the climbing rope. I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. Mastering the art of anchor building involves understanding different types of Aug 9, 2016 · We want to break down climbing gear to ease you into the sport. It is how you secure yourself to the anchor system while you clean an anchor system and/or set up a rappel. Locking, climbing-rated carabiners (at least 3: one for belay device, one for personal anchor system, one for prussik) Personal Anchor System (often called PAS: for connecting yourself to the anchors while rigging the rappel) Either a dynamic climbing rope or static rope. 95 (4) 4 reviews with an average rating of 3. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Price isn't too much of an issue. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. These can be used in single pitch climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and rappelli Jun 5, 2024 · The Metolius PAS 22 is a chain link system of sewn Dyneema® that is intuitive to use for cleaning routes or go in direct on multipitch routes. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? I was wondering if anyone has used a daisy chain or similar personal anchor system to rest during a Via Ferrata climb, of course in addition to your regular set? Or is this unnecessary and would you be able to put bodyweight on your set before it rips out? thank you for your help and happy trails! Looking for climbing gear? Whether your goal is the gym, the crag, the mountains, or a big wall, we've got your covered. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. 8mm is standard size for cordelette, and used day-in, day-out for anchoring. For multipitch I typically use the rope to clove hitch in, but I'll frequently bring a personal anchor as well. Here’s everything you need to know. I was climbing over the weekend and a friend who I hadn't climbed with before strongly discouraged me from using this anchor set-up, citing the weakness of knotted dyneema. The cordelette I can chop it and make my own Personal Anchor System (purcell prusik)along with a carabiner. First, the bestcasescenario for a climber dynamicallyloading a daisy chain is a perilously What kind of carabiners do you use for your master point in a top rope anchor? I usually use two petzl attaches but I have a friend who always insists on using locking oval biners as he says the rope slides through more easily when they're opposite and opposed. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. Most adjustable personal anchor systems are made and sold with the sole purpose of being a PAS, but some people prefer to create their own from a sling. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. These are aid climbers’ tools, used to linkone’s harness to aiders or ascenders, butthey’re commonly and improperly usedas personal anchor tethers. In my 30+ years of climbing and mountaineering I’ve seen some shocking belays, including some of my own (in the early days)! I often climb with friends who send 8b but I'm on a mountain rescue team; we use 7mm for rescue load anchor building. You can girth hitch it to a regular climbing harness. But mostly just a long sling girth-hitched to my harness with a locker on the other end. The only place o can see their functionality is in multipitch sport where you want a sound anchor to hang and belay off of. Sure, it's not as lightweight as a sling, but the fact that it's instantly and infinitely What's the Best PAS (Personal Anchor System) in 2024? Here's a list of top 7 Climbing PAS based on years of experience, real users’ reviews and most important features Jul 1, 2019 · The original Personal Anchor System goes dynamic for added safety Metolius introduced the original Personal Anchor System (PAS) in 2001-2002, bringing a new, convenient, and quick option for tethering to anchors. Of course when you are at an anchor you should always be weighting everything and there should be no risk of falling onto whatever you're using as a PAS but stuff happens. Basically I'd like to get some more opinions on this specific For single-pitch sport leading (the best starting point), you'll likely only need material to build an anchor off bolts or chains and an autoblock for rappelling. Personally, I found it useful as a much quicker personal anchor system while climbing as well as SUPER useful for rappelling. Remember, you have at least one loop, making two strands. Really depends on the scenario. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side fail. Obviously if the rope is available for use as a personal anchor, it will be the best option. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more I'd like to get a harness, belay device, personal anchor system, a few assorted carabiners (at least one BD Gridlock for belaying), one or two mallions (not necessary, but nice to have for their incredible strength), and some webbing/slings for anchors and other stuff. Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. I understand redundancy is good, but is there a reason that one sling or daisy chain to one anchor and a clove hitch with the rope to another is not enough for connecting oneself to an anchor? I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. 8 out of 5 stars Compare Jan 13, 2022 · Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. It works perfectly for anchoring yourself at the top of a route while cleaning your gear or to a belay station. One-handed thumb adjustment to get the perfect length. Mar 13, 2019 · Climb on! How do I use a climbing personal anchor system (PAS)? Rock Climbers use personal anchor systems to directly attach themselves to “anchors” atop climbing routes. The best personal anchor will always be You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. Gear guide: personal anchor systems Adjustable lanyards offer significant advantages over regular slings when you need to tether yourself to an anchor. . This is when you can actually factor-two your personal anchor and snap a biner. The knots subtract, but the loops add more back. g. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. com to help you decide what is best for your needs, whichever version (s) of climbing you find yourself doing. -a PAS (personal anchor system leash); technically you can get away without this but they’re so handy it’s worth it IMO, especially if you’re going multi pitching. You need to know how to belay from above, manage the rope, transition from belaying to climbing, etc. You could also get something like a Sterling Reactor PAS (personal anchor system) + a carabiner instead of slings when setting up an anchor. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added security of all the other methods. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. May 7, 2025 · This review includes 15 of the best and most popular available today. Jan 12, 2023 · Many climbers choose to forego the PAS (Personal Anchor System) and instead connect themselves to anchors and rappel devices with different methods. petzlz professional harnesses, they are a lot more comfortable to wear than regular climbing harnesses. Don't do that. When used properly, these systems can be safe and strong, but when used improperly, they can lead to Oh, and make sure this chain anchor is actually rated for climbing. A number of companies make dedicated personal anchor systems that are designed and tested specifically for the purpose. Would this be considered a good Personal Anchor System? (18mm Nylon runner 240cm, braided to shorten) 36 comments Top Add a Comment [deleted] • 6 yr. hhxzk jou kmoplv xtre gtph vrt rdvfdyq xurmmo asgxulc wtfs
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