Climbing nuts vs hexes size chart reddit. I think it would take a while.

Climbing nuts vs hexes size chart reddit. A black diamond C4 #5 is 85. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. He doesn't use hexes though. Sep 16, 2011 · Nuts size 10 or below; Hexes size 4 and above. it's dangerous. I personally own a set of WC rockcentrics and love them, I don't like the idea of wired hexes, but I have never used them. 5 to 2 is a great supplement to a friends rack. There are much smaller nuts, like RPs, and much larger ones, like hexes (see page 28 for more info on specialized passive pro). I climb mostly in the adirondacks. My boss has the biggest hex Black Diamond ever produced and has named it "Jeebus," and if you climb with him you're required to place the Jeebus. Jan 18, 2024 · A hex nut size chart is an invaluable tool in this process, that aids in the selection of the right size for your specific needs. If you’re the only one with the gear, you’ll quickly find that you want two of each size cam from 0. I only had 3 smaller cams and rounded them out with hexes for the bigger sizes. Mar 4, 2023 · ANSI/ASME B18. You can find manufacturers easly by googling the iso number, most catalouges have both. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. If I can't find hex I usually prefer torx because they're basically the same but are a little rarer and can take higher torque befoe stripping. Does anyone know what the most common sizes of metric bolts are? I'm currently thinking of using M3 and M8 sizes. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. 177 votes, 35 comments. The extend-able sling setup is brilliant and i would get the set of nuts first so you can start practicing now. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced climber, our high-quality cams, nuts, and Some of the smaller hexes were originally intended to be slung with 6mm perlon cord (powercord wasn't invented yet) and they worked fine. . 2 covers hex nuts and provides a range of standard dimensions for each size. Edit: Also can't deny I enjoy placing an old machine nut slung on cord, occasionally. While hexes may be used on routes 5. sometimes -say- #6 it's too small, but #7 is too big). Not color-blind friendly. Easily compare different types of climbing gear! Including cams, nuts, hexes, and more! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Not sure how small is micro to you but in my experience, if you put a smaller cam on your rack you will definitely place it, and it doesn’t weigh much. And regardless if you are looking for a grade 5 hex cap screw or a grade 8 hex cap screw, their dimensional measurements will be identical. 51 votes, 73 comments. New hexes have a lot of variability of size so they'll fit a lot of places, that one looks to have sides of equal length so it's more of a glorified nut. So where am I starting before I think about sizing down? Do I start at the US size and then size down based on the Eur equivalent size column? It’s tough because there aren’t many climbing shoe options in my area so I have to play the order 2-3 pair and return game. Is there any sweet points of cost vs size due to increased demand from industry? Or, when ordered in large enough quantities What measurements are used to size nuts and bolts? I’m looking to find a slightly shorter bolt than the one I have on hand for a project, but I don’t know what sizes or measurements I need to know to get one. Alpine draws - keep an eye out on Backcountry or Moosejaw for deals. Some sort of PAS/anchoring/rappel set up. I don't even bring those things out anymore because they annoy me so much. Size ranges are in mm; each row represents 1 mm so the visual representation is approximate, but it can give you a good view of size overlaps across manufacturers. 75 an 1, the sizes that were a little too big for said nuts. In reply to derms: 4 things, as follows: - Hexes can usually be placed in 3 orientations to give 3 sizes per unit - nuts usually only manage 2 sizes (although it's not quite this clear cut). Jun 13, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. That said, those are a couple dope pieces of gear for the smoke room! Jun 21, 2022 · In a nut shell tricams are too complex and specialist for most people where a standard nut will do the job for most placements in the smaller sizes and hexes or cams in the larger sizes. This is an article from Summit Post that has charts of the range of active and passive pro and how that relates to the body parts you would use to jam a crack of that size. 25m of cord will allow for a reasonably long loop and a Double Fisherman's Knot with a good tail. Depending on the brand these numbers can mean very different things. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. I only have about 2 years experience climbing and 1 year leading. I'm designing a product and need two different sizes of bolts (one larger >6mm and one smaller <4mm), but the size isn't crucial. So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. Metal doesn't weaken with age, so cabled nuts are fine. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also pick up? Thanks as always! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 75 up to the #3 BD sizes, I'm sure they match better with DMMs or WCs. Always a set of nuts, cams are up to you (I just use poor man cams (tricams)), and if you do decide on hexes my personal favorite are DMM torque nuts. Hey Giga, Protection is based on where you are and what you are climbing. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. I think hexes could be quite bomber. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of sizes varying from about 10–100 millimetres (0. Here is a size chart for hex nuts according to ANSI/ASME B18. Hexes are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing, a swaged cable, or a cord. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. I am currently building my trad rack and have several cams already and 4-13 in stoppers. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. Can someone help a clueless guy here figure out how to size bolts? Thanks Archived post. That little gold wire held my first fall, and ever since, brings on good feelings on a lead. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Our collection includes a variety of sizes to suit different climbing conditions, ensuring you have the right gear for every adventure. I think it would take a while. get nuts and tricams up to large hand size with a few large hexes if you want a budget rack for leading easy trad. These essential pieces of equipment provide reliable protection as you ascend to new heights. The home of Climbing on reddit. Well then a set of offset nuts and cams from 0. My first rack was all nuts and the first cams I bought were . Wouldn't it be best to start on hexes and nuts? Not only are they less expensive, but you're more likely to learn proper placement. Nuts/hexes - I don't own any hexes personally but they're a favorite to some. Always seems to go in on the most engaging fun pitches. The fabric components will break down eventually, even without use, but the metal gear like nuts, hexes, and even cams will last for ages. Is cordalette okay to use for these? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment theboddha • Additional comment actions For rethreading Hexes and other nuts, we suggest that 1. Active and passive placement. climbing protection: when to use cams vs. Before really large cams existed some people would use sawed off pieces of a 2x4 to allow smaller cams to fit in wide cracks. So I saw that article from a week ago saying hexes make you look like a noob. Because nuts cost much less than cams, it’s common to double up on the small sizes of the standard nut range for gear-intensive routes. If you know the difference between a nut placement and a cam placement, nuff said. A hex can drop in surprisingly fast if you picked the correct size the first time, but you can also spend too much time if you picked the wrong one or don't eyeball the feature properly. Get a quote for Hex Anchor Bolts, Hex Head Bolts and all kinds of Bolts or just call our sales team now. Use high strength 5. 1. And yes we are scared of falling. I recommend top roping a few cracks until you find something inspiring you want to lead, then buy pro for Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 8 generally takes great cams or nuts. 7 and under, everything over 5. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Which brand is the gold standard for cam sizing? What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. In Pembroke I find it’s very useful to have doubles of DMM offset nuts in the gold, blue, and red sizes. nuts TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. Been mostly 2nding, and using friends rack. So I have been saving up money to start building a trad rack cause I want to start trad climbing. They make hexes in bigger sizes than nuts, and I've found them useful for wider constrictions for that reason. Red Camalot 30-52 mm; #4 Rockcentric 30-36 mm Hexes are great for alpine climbing where the weight savings are significant and you may need to leave bail gear to get down. Was curious what brands people would recommend for nuts, cams, tricams. 5 mm. I don't believe it. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. Here is my thought and correct me if I'm wrong. Eventually you will find out what size crack is most fun for you and you can go from there. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. 5mm Dyneema cord can be used for all sizes down to Hex Size 3. I'm torn between rockcentrics,and torque nuts, anyone have preferences? Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• Additional comment actions I am trying to find nuts of different lengths and that fit different screws/bolts. On top of that the usual tricam set, and yeah, I roll with hexes. 4–4 in) wide. On my rack you will find no hexes or tricams but you will find some smaller nuts (a mixed set of bd micros and metolius astro nuts). We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine Aug 8, 2022 · These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. I was wondering though which cams are used most, basicly what sizes should I buy? also is it worth getting stoppers in 1-3? I started climbing trad 3 years ago and used hexes for a full season. They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. I don't carry them in the Gunks (my home crag) but I carry them in other places I've been to. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. 2: Note that the width across flats and thickness may vary slightly depending on the manufacturer, and there may be additional dimensions such as overall height for certain types of nuts. Similar to nuts, hexes are passive protection that are hexagonally shaped slung chocks that either slide into a constriction or cam into a placement due to their shape. The larger sizes are worth carrying at certain areas, especially those that have very uneven cracks that form constrictions for the hexes, and have multiple pitches where you are constructing anchors and you can use the hexes in your anchor and save your cams for the actual climbing. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. When guidebooks or online resources describe what gear a route takes they just numbers, like "double set of 5s and 6s". - Hexes come in a wider range of sizes and go far bigger than nuts will. Reply r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r/climbing • r Your beloved din codes have been withrew, thou. Plus, in the right situation hexes are absolutely bomb poof. Some climbers prefer cams instead of hexes as they are usually more versatile, if more expensive and slightly less reassuring. I get a 4 pack for <$70 sometimes or you can build them yourself. 4-148. The most common options appear to be C4's, Tech Friends, Big Bros, and large Tri-cams. The change in nuts sizes is for uniformity with other european standards. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of weight and pretty big gear to carry for that type of climbing. I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks with good tapers too them. Looking for advice on where to start. The guy's trying to place a nut, but picks the wrong size 3 times (and there's a better constriction 4 inches lower anyway), then he's like "ah crap" and just plugs a tiny cam and soldiers on. 5-9 is a 40-40. What large protection do you prefer and what do you like or dislike about it? Is there anything I should steer clear of? I go up from street shoe 0. I have a set of climbing technology nuts (4-10), made and readily available in Italy (where I am), but I think I need some more. In addition, DMM's marketing is full of crap that those four hex's take the place of six hex's. Keep in mind that many wired stoppers are only rated to 5-6 kn. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. There are various types of climbing hexes available in many different brands, colours, shapes and sizes. Oh I see, your saying the wire will get bent back and forth if fallen on in cammed mode? I suppose over time it could happen. Do you prefer wired or slung hexes? I am buying a set of hexes to add to a club trad rack, this is a rack that will be used by many people so I would like to choose hexes that will be the most useful. Therefore, all you have to do is look at a hex bolt dimensions chart and you will find everything you need to know. Gear up for your next climb with our range of climbing cams, nuts, and hexes. They're useful climbing easy limestone. Oct 24, 2023 · Hexes are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with webbing, a swaged cable, or a cord. The main thing you need to watch out for in used gear is any fabric components. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. Small hexes are almost useless if you have the nuts and small cams to cover the small end of the spectrum. Hexes Climbing hexes are large hexagonal shaped wedges of metal that you slot into constrictions in wider cracks, to provide protection when traditional climbing outdoors. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. And I really love them nuts. That being said, if you like hex's the Torque Nuts do compliment a set of Rockcentric's well as there are some slight sizing differences between the two brands. There's 0 overlap. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Jan 23, 2025 · Understand the different types and dimensions of hex nuts with size charts in different units (mm & inches) or measurements (metric & imperial). This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. I'm not sure I would recommend them for a beginner but they are essential on moderate routes in places with lots of pin scared but bomber granite. 8ish draws sounds like enough to get you out of a pickle. Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: 4 things, as follows: - Hexes can usually be placed in 3 orientations to give 3 sizes per unit - nuts usually only manage 2 sizes (although it's not quite this clear cut). 5 mm cord and use some plastic tubing to fill the extra size of the holes in the bigger pieces. Lock Nut vs. Available in a range of sizes from M2 to M42 and din 933. Thoughts? Thanks! comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment b4ss_f4c3 • Additional comment actions Feb 20, 2021 · Best to think of hexes as an extension into larger sizes from your set of nuts. g. If the hexes are slung on cord (as they will be, in sizes 4 and up) then you should replace the cord if it's "original". I always rack at least two. This guide will help you interpret size charts and make informed decisions. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. 2. I have black diamond stoppers, and I'm looking into wallnuts, also not sure what I want for hexes. I'm all about diversifying your skills and all, but don't get any hexes unless you want to sound like a fucking wind chime going up the rock. Reply buyabighouse • Additional comment actions Mar 10, 2025 · Jam Nut vs. Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to use one exclusively over the other or a mix of both? Cheers. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. The drive style - hex vs Phillips vs torx vs slot? Hex is my default because we mostly use hex at work, and they're one of the easiest to find. 5. American National Standard and Unified Standard Hex Nuts and Jam Nuts and Heavy Hex Nuts and Jam Nuts Hex Nut I'm not sure what you are asking. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. The torque nuts are great for those larger sizes and have the same color scheme, yet slightly different size from the . If you save it for yourself, you can move groups of columns around. Remember, balancing size, strength, and material is crucial for a secure, long-lasting connection. you can get a full set of nuts and hexes for the cost of 2 cams and then you can start practicing doing lots of placements. I was wondering what would be a good size range for cams and how many nuts is enough nuts? I have money for about 6-7 cams and for the nuts I was planning 1-11 in normal nuts, 7-11 in offsets, a set of peenuts 1-5 and hexes, 1-4 Is this good for a beginner trad rack? (Slings and draws I’ve We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've seen both positive and negative about hexes and nuts. I found other cam size comparison charts unsatisfactory, so I made my own in google sheets to share. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. Can I attach my spare tire with spline lug nuts even though it originally came with hex lugs? Or do I need to make sure to have some normal hex lugs on hand if I ever need to change it? DMM wallnut, size 3. After that, start picking up doubles in the useful sizes (as you climb more you figure out which ones you end up using a lot), but then definetly get some offsets. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. I like the CTs, but they aren't very versatile and their sizes don't overlap (e. In which case, you can either put them on the same carabiner with your big nuts (for small hexes), or clip them further back on your harness on their own separate carabiner (for bigger sizes). For instance, the width across flats is crucial for determining the correct wrench size for installation, and the thickness gives an insight into the nut's load-bearing capacity. What is the name of the length of how much space it takes up on the screw? For example if you put a nut on a screw and then screwed it all the way into the wall and the nut kept it sticking out 1/4 inch from the wall, what would you call that dimension (the 1/4 size of the nut)? I have no idea what to search for Old hex nuts passed on from uncle. Don't let people who don't know what they're talking about scare you. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. They place easier and set harder. Nut tool - splurge for the one with the leash. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. ANSI (inch) Hex and Jam Nut Size Table Chart Hardware ANSI Menu The following tables provide Hex Nut and Jam Nut dimensions per ASME / ANSI B18. when I'm not climbing that style, like if I'm on aeolian granite or breccia I'm largely loving cams Order high quality Hex Bolts from ITA Fasteners at the reasonable price. I know with offset nuts it happens over time. Should I do anything about this? But on this LS climbing shoe size chart, a 8. It just seems Recently, we've discussed the best small gear, but what about large protection? I am considering getting protection larger than 4". Slings, ropes, cordalettes and things like that should be replaced after a certain period of time has passed. Why aren't hexes (torque nuts) more common on trad racks? I'm learning trad and I've had exposure to a lot of different gear. 75m gives the The first nuts used in climbing were literally just that; machine nuts of varying sizes slung with nylon cord. I still carry the regular DMM nuts just in case and split them in small and large racks. Or any advice with starting a rack. Honourable mentions to the smaller blue offset, and the red six. Climbers select a range of sizes to use on a specific climb based on the characteristics of the cracks in the rock encountered on that My rack is slowly coming together but right now I am borrowing gear when I lead from my fellow climbers. Hex Nut, What are the Differences? When choosing between jam nuts, lock nuts, and hex nuts, it’s important to consider their design, function, installation, and overall performance. For example a DMM dragon #5 is 50 - 85 mm. Jan 8, 2024 · Before cams were invented I started my climbing career using hex,s, but fairly quickly stopped using them, preferring nuts of all sizes (remember MOAC,s) and have continued in this vein. All my biners are aluminum and the wires on my nuts and hexes are steel. 5-1 sizes with evolv (0. 4 to 3. They look like they're in pretty good shape from the photo. Two times one for another din number, and the latter for iso. I also like that the hex color roughly match the sizing for the BD C4/Dragon cam range so it makes getting to know your hexes a little easier (If you use those cams). Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. 1m is perfect for Hexes and other nuts as well as replacing tape on double looped cams, whilst 0. Cost is more important. I'm just starting to build a rack, and wanted to get an idea of if they're still good to climb on. Compare different climbing nuts. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. I also keep them in the same bag where they are probably touching. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. 85 votes, 37 comments. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. As for rack. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Choosing the correct bolt and nut sizes is essential for mechanical and construction projects. Alternatively, 5. Choose whichever fits best in the placement! Nuts are your bread and butter, with a few hexes for larger sizes. Ty! Came across these old (70s?) Chouinard nuts and hexes on Craigslist. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. A lot of different hexes have been wired over the years with no problems. 5 for shaman and 1 for phantom) and I find that they are very comfortable and still basically as high performing (for everything but really micro edging) as anything else I have. As far as Offsets vs. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. zzhcfh woz frmfv fksoni mds oqcuox nvejphe ysth skjl smaaaca