How to crimp grip This grip places less strain Open Crimp/ Drag Grip. Under crimping - Insulation not sufficiently pinched, no mechanical support or strain relief for wire B. Proper crimping - Wire insulation held firmly, slight indenting of Jan 4, 2024 · The next evolution of the crimp grip is the full crimp. This grip puts a lot of pressure on fingers and can result in injury if not done correctly. It is critical to know how to be safe when using grip techniques, whether you are a first-time climber or have completed several climbs. For more specific instructions, all manufacturers have a data sheet with instructions followed for the best results. Your knuckles arch up, creating a downward force that pulls you to the wall. Examples of insulation support crimp cross sections: A. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. How to Climb Safely with Half crimp and Full crimp Climbing Grips. . You can hold a crimp in two ways: Full crimp or closed crimp: You have sharp angles in your knuckles and your thumb is tucked over your fingers for extra power. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. Feb 2, 2025 · Since the half crimp grip is more difficult, half crimp training will help develop the muscles and tendons in your fingers and wrists. The full crimp looks much like the closed crimp, except with a subtle nuance– hyper-extending the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joints. In an open hand crimp, the fingers will be laying flat and ergonomically. To perform a half crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinkie is straight (simply because it is shorter). To perform a half-crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinky is straight (simply because it is shorter). The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. The safest way to use a crimp hold is with an open crimp, also known as a drag grip. Keep in mind that while either grip helps increase the power of your climb, they both pose a significant risk for hand injuries. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. Sep 27, 2024 · The half crimp grip has the most applications in climbing. In a full crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent so that the DIP joints hyper-extend inwards. Unlike the other two types of crimp grips, full and half crimps, your fingers are not at a full arch and the only thing above the handhold are your fingertips. Feb 24, 2023 · While grip position may vary based on your goals, to protect against injury, train the half-crimp/semi-crimp position—without your thumb (right photo). Sep 21, 2022 · Perfect for smaller edges, a crimp grip (AKA crimping) is when you can only fit about a single finger pad on a hold. Over crimping - Insulation & strands are crushed, barrel digs into wire strands and can actually break wire strands C. This position is stressful on finger tendons, so be careful. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. The openness of a crimp grip refers to where our thumb is while crimping, and the angle our fingers and knuckles make while we crimp. Open grip: Your fingertips are on the edge and the rest of your hand is draped onto the wall. There are two primary ways to grip a crimp hold: the full crimp and the half crimp. Each method has its advantages, but it’s important to know when and how to use them safely. May 1, 2024 · Half-Crimp: The half-crimp is the grip with the most applications while climbing. The one-armed 20 mm lift uses deadlift form: Stand with your feet shoulder-width or wider. Jul 13, 2021 · A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. The full crimp grip involves curling your fingers tightly over the hold, with your thumb pressing down over your Feb 2, 2025 · The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. Jun 4, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. Oct 6, 2024 · The Two Main Ways to Grip a Crimp. Products Versatile crimper: https://geni. Full Crimp Grip. By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. Open Crimp/ Drag Grip. The next evolution of the crimp grip is the full crimp. Jan 4, 2024 · Full Crimp. If possible, the thumb rests next to the index finger or onto the hold.