Offset nuts vs regular. Sep 24, 2020 · I too did the same thing.

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Offset nuts vs regular ) and have a bit of a gap between sizes (I infill this gap with a Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. Has anyone had a chance to try out the new BD Offset Stoppers? How do they compare to the DMM ones. I highly recommend you go with any/all of the DMM nuts for Yosemite walls. Apr 23, 2020 · I love my offset nuts, rarely rack the regular ones. I recommend these nuts to every climber, but my biggest complaint is that the size range is limited. I carry a full set of metolious offset cames which fit in about half of typical nut placements, and are quicker and easier to remove for the 2nd. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? Anything smaller than the gold offset can be covered by the 1-4 wallnuts, as a general rule. Their Alloy Offsets are designed to protect irregular and flared cracks that repel regular Wallnuts. Again, both models work really well. Apr 28, 2019 · For offset vs regular they just said they like having both for variety. It really just comes down the the shape of the rock, and there are a lot of different rocks out there. All the BD nuts I have sit in a box at home, I only carry DMM offset nuts now. g. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. I only state 1-7 wallnuts b/c the 5, 6, 7 sizes seem to get used the most, thus having doubles is debatably worth it. Anyway, as I mentioned they come in a set of 5 (smaller offset nuts are available in brass much like the original RP’s), each is rated to 12 kN, they range in size from 12 to 23mm (size 7 to 11), colour coded, are not inexpensive (about $16 ea. Have DMM HBs 7-11. Switching the orientation of the nut gives overlaps in sizes. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. I can’t currently justify keeping them on my rack, even while aid climbing. They're OK, but I haven't become a big fan of them. Calling offsets "niche" is a bit silly, and so is calling them "better". . yosemite) then they are nice i think. Feb 6, 2018 · Also i find many places a medium sized regular nut will go a cam will also go, whereass the spots offset nuts are bomber often wont take a cam (and yes i know someone is gonna say they'd rather have a nut over a cam ect or whatnot, i'm just saying carrying cams and offsets covers me better than cams and regular nuts). For going smaller, should I get peenuts or HB brassies? For sizing I'm assuming the brassies line up pretty nicely with largest being 6 and smallest alloy being 7. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. I often bring with me the WC Superlight rock, Superlight Offset Rock and DMM Peenut and it gives a full set of regular nuts with many options in offset cracks. Aug 9, 2020 · Maybe someday DMM will update the Alloy Offset with 4 tapered curvy shapes and lighter design. Sep 24, 2020 · I too did the same thing. Some placements suit an offset nut, and some suit a regular nut and some suit both, or neither. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. Each of the offset climbing nuts is rated to 12kN and the smallest of these nuts weighs only 27 grams. For unknown long climbs . I also have a double set of the DMM aluminum Peanuts (offset). After picking up a set of offset stoppers I only carry "regular" nuts that are smaller than my offset stoppers. Double up 2-7. The document has moved here. And those nuts are superlight. Moved Permanently. My obnoxious opinion: Since a "real" offset placement is with the wide part of the nut on the outside, you can't see what's going on on the inside. I think it should be their next thing to do. Nov 23, 2021 · Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Offset cams, nuts and hooks have worked perfectly fine for nearly every route I have climbed. And i carry 1 pink tricam of course. While the peenuts aren't as low a profile as the brass offsets, since I presently have them as a tiny offset option, it sounds like having a tiny non offset option is probably best (maybe IMP 2/3/4, since that seems to cover the range from 'theoretically still can be sound Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets. com Aug 17, 2015 · The DMM nuts are far superior on Yosemite and Zion walls, in my opinion. Jun 4, 2025 · Comparing nut heads of offset nuts. I’m climbing in red rock May 26, 2022 · Just a tiny bit too much flare or a tiny bit too little flare of the crack, and an offset nut has no more contact area than a regular nut. As far as Offsets vs. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers Sep 30, 2016 · My granite climbing rack with the DMM Offset Nuts supplemented with a few others. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Regular nuts go, I would get a set of regular nuts, just because they are cheaper and you can probably picked up a used set for 40ish bucks on Mountain Project. Halfnuts have similar features to Superlight Rocks and are available in 7 sizes. After that, start picking up doubles in the useful sizes (as you climb more you figure out which ones you end up using a lot), but then definetly get some offsets. Of course, there are lots of other types of nuts on the market. Other options. Sep 12, 2014 · The least useful BallNutz sizes were the largest, which could be bested by cams in nearly every situation, and the placement of smaller sizes needs pretty specific circumstances.